Berenty Reserve: Madagascar’s Famous Lemur Sanctuary in the Deep South

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Few places in Madagascar deliver the island’s wildlife as reliably and as intimately as Berenty Reserve. Tucked into the arid Anosy region of the far south-east, this private reserve is where troops of ring-tailed lemurs pad across sun-baked ground, sometimes settling within a few feet of quiet visitors, and where the extraordinary Verreaux’s sifaka crosses open clearings in its unmistakable sideways ‘dance’.

Berenty is small, walkable and endlessly photogenic, blending a lush gallery forest along the Mandrare River with the alien-looking spiny forest that grows nowhere else on Earth. It has drawn primate researchers for decades, and today it remains one of the most rewarding and accessible wildlife stops in southern Madagascar.

Why visit Berenty Reserve

Berenty is not a national park but a private reserve, created decades ago by the de Heaulme family on a former sisal estate. That long history matters: generations of protection have produced lemurs that are remarkably habituated to people, so sightings feel effortless rather than lucky.

The reserve’s appeal comes down to a rare combination. You can walk gentle, well-marked trails and encounter multiple lemur species in a single morning, watch fruit bats stir in tall riverside trees, and step from shady forest into a spiky, otherworldly landscape all within a compact area. For travellers heading to the deep south, it is one of the surest ways to see southern Madagascar’s signature wildlife up close.

• Near-guaranteed lemurs in a small, easy-to-explore area
• Two contrasting forests that showcase the region’s biodiversity
• Guided walks by day and night for very different wildlife

Wildlife: ring-tailed lemurs and dancing sifaka

The stars of Berenty are its ring-tailed lemurs (Lemur catta), the black-and-white-tailed primates that have become a symbol of Madagascar. Here they are so at ease that troops often forage and sunbathe within easy view, giving photographers the kind of close, natural encounters that are rare elsewhere.

Equally memorable is Verreaux’s sifaka. Built for leaping between trees, these elegant white lemurs cannot walk normally on the ground, so they bound sideways across open clearings with arms raised in a bouncing motion visitors affectionately call ‘dancing’. Watching one cross a clearing is a highlight of any Madagascar trip.

Berenty’s wildlife goes well beyond its lemurs. Look for brown lemurs in the canopy, colonies of large fruit bats (flying foxes) roosting in tall trees, radiated tortoises on the forest floor, and a rich cast of birds. After dark, guided night walks reveal nocturnal species such as mouse lemurs and sportive lemurs, plus chameleons picked out by torchlight.

The gallery forest and spiny forest

Part of what makes Berenty special is that two very different habitats sit side by side. Along the banks of the Mandrare River, a shady gallery forest of tall tamarind trees provides cool, green corridors where most of the lemur action unfolds. It is the reserve’s living heart and the easiest place to spend a slow, wildlife-filled morning.

Step away from the river and you enter the spiny forest, one of the strangest plant communities on the planet and found only in southern Madagascar. Here the endemic Didierea, or ‘octopus trees’, raise their thorny arms alongside stout baobabs and other drought-adapted, sculptural plants. Walking between these two worlds in a single visit is a vivid lesson in why the island’s biodiversity is so celebrated.

Getting to Berenty

Reaching Berenty is part of the adventure. Most travellers first fly into Madagascar’s capital, Antananarivo, then take a domestic flight to Fort Dauphin (Tolagnaro), the main town of the Anosy region and the gateway to the deep south-east. Booking domestic legs early is wise, as schedules to regional airports can be limited.

From Fort Dauphin, Berenty is reached by a road transfer of several hours along a route that passes through changing southern landscapes, villages and stretches of spiny forest, so the drive itself becomes a scenic introduction to the region. Many visitors arrange this transfer as part of a package with their accommodation, but travelling under your own steam gives you the freedom to stop, photograph and explore along the way.

Madagascar has no reliable public transport, so most independent travellers hire a vehicle with a driver. Compare car rental prices on Carla and book ahead in peak season.

Flight delayed or cancelled? Flights to Madagascar often connect through Paris or Nairobi. If your connection was delayed, EU regulation EC 261 may entitle you to up to EUR 600.
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Where to stay

The most immersive option is to stay on the reserve itself, in simple lodge-style accommodation set among the trees. Sleeping on site lets you make the most of the golden hours around dawn and dusk, when lemurs are most active and the light is best, and it puts night walks right on your doorstep. Facilities are modest rather than luxurious, in keeping with the reserve’s rustic, wildlife-first character.

Alternatively, many travellers base themselves in Fort Dauphin, which offers a wider choice of hotels and guesthouses, from budget rooms to comfortable seaside options, and visit Berenty on a longer day trip or overnight excursion. Staying in town works well if you want to combine the reserve with the area’s beaches, bays and other excursions.

Best time to visit and practical tips

Berenty can be visited year-round, but the dry season is generally the most comfortable and popular, with easier travel and pleasant conditions for walking. The far south is hot and can be intensely sunny, so lightweight, breathable clothing, a hat, sunscreen and plenty of water are essential whenever you go.

A few simple habits make the experience better for you and the wildlife:

• Always keep a respectful distance from the lemurs and never feed them, however tame they seem
• Go with a local guide to find and identify species you would otherwise miss
• Do both a day and a night walk to see completely different animals
• Bring a camera with a decent zoom, plus binoculars for birds and canopy species

Give yourself at least a full day, ideally with a night on the reserve, so you are not rushing the best wildlife hours.

Frequently asked questions

Is Berenty Reserve a national park?

No. Berenty is a private reserve, established decades ago by the de Heaulme family on a former sisal estate, rather than a state-run national park. Access is arranged through the reserve and its accommodation.

Will I really see lemurs at Berenty?

Sightings are near-guaranteed. Berenty’s ring-tailed lemurs are famously habituated and often approach visitors, and Verreaux’s sifaka are regularly seen crossing open ground. You can typically spot several species in a single guided walk.

How do I get to Berenty?

Most visitors fly into Antananarivo, then take a domestic flight to Fort Dauphin (Tolagnaro). From there, Berenty is a road transfer of several hours through southern landscapes, which can be arranged as a package or by hiring your own vehicle.

How long should I spend at Berenty?

Plan for at least a full day, and ideally a night on the reserve. Staying over lets you enjoy both a night walk and the early-morning hours, when lemurs are most active and the forest is at its most atmospheric.

Berenty Reserve distils much of what makes Madagascar unforgettable into one accessible, deeply rewarding stop: dancing sifaka, curious ring-tailed lemurs, ancient tamarinds along the Mandrare and the spiky magic of the spiny forest. Pair it with a domestic flight to Fort Dauphin and a scenic road transfer, give yourself time for both day and night walks, and Berenty will likely stand out as a highlight of your journey through the deep south.